Origin and Habitat: It comes from the Hopetown district, Nortern Cape, South Africa
Habitat: It grows in sandy volcanic soil with fine-grained lava and quartz.

• Lithops aucampiae subs. euniceae var. fluminalis D.T.Cole
• Lithops aucampiae var. fluminalis D.T.Cole

• Lithops aucampiae L. Bolus
• Lithops loganiae
• Lithops aucampiae C002 Near Danielskuil, South Africa
• Lithops aucampiae C003 10 km SE of Postmasburg, South Africa
• Lithops aucampiae C004 5 km N of Postmasburg, South Africa
• Lithops aucampiae C005 (Warrenton Form) Near Warrenton, South Africa
• Lithops aucampiae C011 (Kuruman Form) 5 km SW of Kuruman, South Africa
• Lithops aucampiae C012 (Kuruman Form) 10 km E of Kuruman, South Africa
• Lithops aucampiae C046 5 km NE of Griquatown, South Africa
• Lithops aucampiae C061 70 km WSW of Vryburg, South Africa
• Lithops aucampiae C117 45 km NW of Griquatown, South Africa
• Lithops aucampiae C172 5 km W of Sishen, South Africa
• Lithops aucampiae C173 (Kuruman Form) 60 km SE of Kuruman, South Africa
• Lithops aucampiae C255 TL: 15 km NNW of Postmasburg, South Africa
• Lithops aucampiae C257 40 km W of Postmasburg, South Africa
• Lithops aucampiae C298 Near Severn, South Africa
• Lithops aucampiae C325 (Kuruman Form) 10 km W of Reivilo, South Africa
• Lithops aucampiae C332 (Kuruman Form) 5 km NE of Kuruman, South Africa
• Lithops aucampiae C333 Near Griquatown, South Africa
• Lithops aucampiae C334 15 km NNE of Olifantshoek, South Africa
• Lithops aucampiae C366 Near Danielskuil, South Africa
• Lithops aucampiae var. koelemanii (de Boer) D.T.Cole
• Lithops koelemanii de Boer
• Lithops aucampiae var. koelemanii C016 TL: 35 km NW of Postmasburg, South Africa
• Lithops aucampiae var. koelemanii C256 35 km WSW of Postmasburg, South Africa

• Lithops aucampiae subs. euniceae (de Boer) D.T.Cole
• Lithops aucampiae var. euniceae (de Boer) D.T.Cole
• Lithops aucampiae subs. euniceae C048 TL: 15 km N of Hopetown, South Africa
• Lithops aucampiae subs. euniceae var. fluminalis D.T.Cole
• Lithops aucampiae var. fluminalis D.T.Cole
• Lithops aucampiae subs. euniceae var. fluminalis C054 TL: Near Hopetown, South Africa

• Lithops aucampiae C389 cv. Betty’s Beryl
• Lithops aucampiae C392 (North or North-West Cape, South Africa) cv. Storms’s Snowcap
• Lithops aucampiae C395 cv. Jackson’s Jade D.T.Cole
• Lithops aucampiae subs. euniceae var. fluminalis cv. Green River
• Lithops aucampiae var. fluminalis cv. Green River
• Lithops aucampiae subs. euniceae cv. Bellaketty
• Lithops aucampiae subs. euniceae cv. Hikoruby

Description: Lithops aucampiaeSN|12986]]SN|12986]] subsp. euniceae var. fluminalis is an exquisite “grey form” distiguishable from the var. euniceae for the finer and more numerous finger-like projections and marking on the margin and for the dark-grey overall colour. The plant in winter often take a paler greenish-grey colouration.
Habit: It slowly clumps forming cluster up to 200 mm in diameter, with up to 10 heads.
Bodies (paired leaves): Medium to large, facial diameters 25-40 mm in length and 20-30 mm wide. Profile truncate; top surface flat to slightly convex; fissure shallow, 3-6 mm; lobes conjunct. The plants prevalent colour is dark grey/brown with variable markings on the top surface. Windows and channels, usually broad, occasionally reduced to narrow grooves, obscurely translucent dark grey or dull brow. The finger-like lines organized into rays around the margins usually are distinctly dark grey or brown, and form an elegant lace, sometimes overflowing even on the sides. Dusky dots dull greenish grey. Shoulders milky bluish, pinkish or greenish grey.
Flowers: Yellow, medium to large, up to 45 mm Ø, mostly 25-35 mm Ø.
Fruit: Mostly 6 chambered.

Bibliography: Major references and further lectures
1) Steven A. Hammer (1999) “Lithops – Treasures of the veld” British Cactus and Succulent Society. ISBN 0-902-099-64-7; ISBN-13 978-0-902099-64-7
2) Heidrun E. K. Hartmann (2002) “Aizoaceae F – Z” Springer
3) Riha, J., and R. Subik. “The illustrated encyclopedia of cacti and other succulents.” London: Octopus Books, 1981
4) Desmond T. Cole & Naureen A. Cole, Uwe Beyer, Yves Delange (2008) “Les Lithops” SUCCULENTES Spécial 2008 AIAPS (now Terra seca). ISSN 0258-5359
5) Desmond T. Cole (1988) “Lithops – Flowering Stones” Acorn Books CC. ISBN 0-620-09678-0; ISBN-13 978-0-620-09678-2
6) Desmond T. Cole & Naureen A. Cole (2005) “LITHOPS Flowering Stones” Cactus & Co. Libri. ISBN 88-900511-7-5 ISBN-13 978-88-900511-7-3
7) Yasuhiko Shimada (2001) “The Genus Lithops” Dobun Shoin. ISBN 4-8103-4066-X
8) Linda R. Berg “Introductory Botany: Plants, People, and the Environment” Cengage Learning, 02/Mar/2007
9) Dieter J. Von Willert “Life strategies of succulents in deserts: with special reference to the Namib desert” CUP Archive, 1992

Cultivation and Propagation: The Lithops (a.k.a. Living Stones) are some of the world's most fascinating plants and are sought by the collector of succulent plants. Paying attention to the particular growing requirement of Lithops is especially important. If you provide the Lithops with the right conditions, they will reward you with their unique shape, size, colour and a proliferation of blooms in autumn. However, Lithops are tricky plants that are very particular about their growing conditions and require the right maintenance in order to keep happy. But don't be afraid even the best growers have plants that mysteriously dry up, or leave during the night. While Lithops are picky about their care, if you are patient and remember the basics, your efforts will be rewarded. Being small plants, a representative collection can be grown on a patio table, a sunny windowsill or a shelf in the greenhouse.
Growing rate: Slow growing for a mesemb.
Soil: They grow best in an open mineral, sandy-gritty soil and requires good drainage as they are prone to root rot. They can grow outdoor in sunny, dry, rock crevices (protection against winter wet is required) They can also be cultivated in alpine house, in poor, drained soil.
Repotting: They may stay in the same pot for many years. Plants grown in larger containers have frequently relatively poor flowers. Flowers might improve when the plants are given their own, small individual pots.
Watering They Require little water otherwise the epidermis breaks (resulting in unsightly scars). The basic cultivation routine is: Stop watering after flowering. Start watering after the old leaves are completely dry (usually late March or Early April). Water freely during the growing season, soak the compost fully but allow it to dry out between waterings. In the winter season the plant doesn’t need watering, the plant in this time extracts water from the outer succulent leaves, allowing them to shrivel away, relocating water to the rest of the plant and to the new leaves that form during this period. If grown in a container, bottom watering by immersing the container is recommended. Water sparingly only when warm, no water when cold. Nearly all problems occur as a result of overwatering and poor ventilation, especially when weather conditions are dull and cool or very humid. They must have very dry atmosphere.
Fertilization: Feed them once during the growing season with a fertilizer specifically formulated for cactus and succulents (high potash fertilizer with a dilute low nitrogen), including all micro nutrients and trace elements diluted to ½ the strength recommended on the label. They thrive in poor soils and need a limited supplies of fertilizer to avoid the plants developing excess vegetation, which is easily attacked by fungal diseases. Some growers fertilize frequently, some hardly ever. However, for the highly succulent mesembs, (Lithops, Conophytums, etc.) fertilization is not really necessary.
Light: They prefer a very bright situation and in winter they need the maximum amount of light you are able to give them, but keep more cool and partially shaded in summer. The only exception to this is seedlings in their first year that enjoy a shades place. Such tiny plants can easily get scorched or broiled and their appearance spoiled (this may not matter in the wild, where the Lithops have probably shrunk into the ground and becomes covered with sands). Outdoor (Lithops prefer full sun, with some shade in the hottest summer months. High levels of light are needed in autumn to flower and for good plant development. The low intensity of sun light during the growing season of this species generally prevents the white flower flowers from opening.
Special Advice: Lithops are best planted in a sunny and airy part of the greenhouse, and not too close to the glass roof or sides of the house as the plants can overheat during hot spells.
Hardiness: They require a minimum temperature 5°C (But will take a light frost and are hardy down to -7° C for short periods if they are in dry soil). USDA zones 9A – 11.
Uses: Container, rock garden.
Pests & diseases: Lithops may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free, particularly if they are grown in a mineral potting-mix, with good exposure and ventilation. Nonetheless, there are several pests to watch for:
- Red spiders: they may be effectively rubbed up by misting the vulnerable plants every day.
- Mealy bugs: occasianlly they develop aerial into the new leaves and flowers with disfiguring results, but the worst types develop underground on the roots and are invisible except by their effects.
- Sciara Flies: they are one of the major problems for seedlings. It is a good practice to mulch your seedlings with a layer of grit, which will strongly discourage the flies.
- Scales, thrips and aphids: (they are rarely a problem.)
It is wise to treat your whole collection with a systemic insecticide twice a year in spring and autumn.
- Rot: it is only a minor problem with mesembs if the plants are watered and “aired” correctly. If they are not, fungicides won't help all that much.
Remarks: After flowering in the autumn and extending through winter season the plant doesn’t need watering, but they will still be growing, the new bodies will be increasing in size extracting water from the outer succulent leaves, allowing them to shrivel away. In fact the plant in this time extracts water and nutrient stored in the outer succulent leaves, allowing them to dehydrate relocating the water to the rest of the plant and to the new leaves that form during this period until the old leaves are reduced to nothing more than "thin papery shells".
Propagation: Seed or (or rarely) cuttings. The small seeds can be sown in pots of fine, well-drained sand, any time during the spring and summer months when temperatures are warm. Cover the seeds with a very fine layer of grit and water from below with a fungicide to prevent damping off. For the first 3-4 days cover the pots with a sheet of glass/clear perspex to keep the humidity levels high. Remove the glass and replace it with light shadecloth and mist once or twice a day for the next two weeks after which most seeds should have germinated. From then on mistings can be reduced to every second and then every third day as the little plants grow. Take the cuttings from a grown-up mother plant. Each cutting must contain one or more heads along with a fraction of root and permit them to dry out a couple of days, lay the cuttings on the soil and insert the stem end partially into the soil. Try to keep the cutting somewhat upright so that the roots are able to grow downward. It is relatively difficult to root Lithops from cuttings and generally pointless as well, so quick are they from seed.
Comment: Improvement of Lithops characteristics: Some growers (but not all!!) think it is very intriguing to reinforce any characteristic of cultivated Lithops of by crossing two similar selected plants and then back-crossing with the mother plant. This way we can eventually get some interesting results. Of course, many of the nicest Lithops we grow in cultivation have already been selected over time. However many Lithops are already nice plants which can’t really be improved, on the other hand one could try to improve the colour or the markings etc. Now if we have two particular plants we may attempt to breed between them and can maybe get a whole improved population and then select some better offspring to continue the selection.
Seed production: Plants can be hand pollinated, using a small paint brush. Remember always to cross different clones as the plants are self-sterile. The seed will remain viable for many years provided it is stored in a cool dry place.